The Bones of St Nicholas Part II

In October I stood on the oldest known floor in Aberdeen, a true ‘hidden’ gem as the above image shows.  It belongs to the Kirk of St Nicholas. How old?  Around a thousand years according to the carbon dating of the graves discovered in the recent dig.  The fish-rich diet of our forebears skews the results of the dating, changing the mineral content of those old bones, but certainly some time during the 11th century.

So why build a stone church in a small, Scottish coastal settlement in 1000AD?

David I's seal

By the 1100s, Aberdeen had the status of a royal burgh, granted by David I.  David also invited Bishop Nechtan of Mortlach to settle here and make it the centre of the new bishopric in 1124.  The fact Nechtan and his successors concentrated their efforts on building a cathedral in Old Aberdeen, then Villa Aberdon, rather than in the centre of the burgh, suggests there was a considerable church here already.   The 1157 ‘bull’ or charter from Pope Adrian IV to succeeding bishop, Edward, refers to churches in both burgh and ‘villa’.

But why was the bishopric not founded there in the first place? What was the significance of Mortlach?  Despite the romantic notion it was founded in 1012 after the Danes were defeated there by Malcolm II, modern historian, Alex Woolf believes that the actual founder was the former’s great-grandson, Malcolm Canmore, in 1065.

Malcolm Canmore

This Malcolm is better known to us as the hero of Shakespeare’s infamous ‘Scottish Play’, when he returns to slay the murderous Macbeth.  However, the English playwright’s grasp of Scottish history was practically zero.  Macbeth had a perfectly legitimate claim to the Scottish throne; whereas Malcolm’s family had spent the last three generations bumping off their enemies to gain the prize.

Mortlach, located near modern-day Dufftown, was in the ancient Pictish state of Moray, Macbeth’s territory.  Malcolm founded the bishopric here out of political necessity rather than religious fervour, so the churchmen could keep order amongst Macbeth’s supporters and allies, natural enemies of the new king.

Perhaps Malcolm felt a little guilty after all and decided to fund the building of a new church as a means of atonement for his bloody deeds.  Aberdeen profited.  Whatever the case, the bishopric of Mortlach was instituted just at the time Alexander Gammie suggested that the kirk of St Nicholas was begun.  Only time … and archaeology will tell!

The Bones of St Nicholas Part I

No, no, not the relics of the Bishop of Myra who became the most famous patron saint of children … no, it is the mortal remains of our Celtic forebears who named their settlement Aber Da Abhainn, ‘At the mouth of two rivers’, the Dee and the Denburn, to which I refer in my title.

These bones were discovered by local archaeologist Alison Cameron back in 2008; the burial of twenty-three skeletons of infants and children were revealed outside the curved wall or apse of the earliest known stone church in Aberdeen.

Received wisdom stated that the ‘Great Church’ dedicated to St Nicholas which appears prominently on Parson Gordon’s 1661 map was founded in the twelfth century. Imagine Alison’s surprise at the ‘extraordinary’ result of the carbon dating on the children’s graves which placed them in the period between 890 and 1020AD!  This was history in the making – confounding centuries of previously accepted knowledge.

The burials apparently could not have predated the church building as they are laid out to follow the curved wall in a fan-shape, and they were undamaged unlike later burials above.  Therefore that Celtic community on the upper slopes of the Denburn Valley was in existence more than a century before chieftain, Gillecoaim, who gave his name to Gilcomston, witnessed the royal charter granted to the monks of Deer in 1152.

Aberdeen Civic Seal from 1150-1424
showing Nicholas with nautical symbols

These Celts, who spoke a tongue closer to Welsh than Gaelic, were fisherfolk who exploited the rich harvests of salmon in the rivers and white fish in the North Sea.  It is no surprise then that they should choose ‘Blessed Nicholas’ in his aspect as patron saint of seafarers as their spiritual protector.

The Christian faith of these fishers would have been rooted in the mission work of early wandering preachers like Saints Machar, Ternan and Molaug who came to NE Scotland in the 5th and 6th centuries.  Aberdeen did not become a bishopric until 1124AD, but was moved from Mortlach in Banffshire, a religious centre from the 1060s.

Oddly enough, the only person to ever suggest an earlier date for the building of St Nicholas’ kirk was historian Alexander Gammie, who gives the date 1060AD in his Churches of Aberdeen, published in 1909.  Those little graves of the ‘Mither Kirk’, hidden for so long, now tell us that he and those medieval chroniclers, dismissed by modern historians, might have been closer to the truth all along.

St Nicholas, Bishop of Myra

The Wandering Wallace Tower

“The name’s Keith, not Wallace!” the indignant Robert Keith might have bellowed had he known his carved likeness had been mistaken for the Guardian of Scotland. It was indeed the brother of George, the 4th Earl Marischal, who commissioned the building of the Z-plan towerhouse in 1588 in the Netherkirkgate.

Jealous of his brother’s new university, Robert Keith, Lord of Benholm, deliberately sited his new home within sight of Marischal College. Such was their sibling rivalry that Sir Robert took a group of miscreants to occupy the Abbey of Deer which also belonged to his brother. This resulted in an armed standoff which thankfully ended without bloodshed. 

By 1595 the two brothers were reconciled without further incident. Robert died in 1616, and ‘Benholm’s Lodging’ as it was known, then passed through a number of owners, including Patrick Dun, principal of Marischal College, and James Pirie, spirit dealer, turned the basement of Benholm’s Lodging into “The Wallace Tower Bar”, while the other floors were let out. The council continued to use it as housing from 1918, as they were desperate to fill the shortage after the Great War, and the pub remained a well-known drinking establishment.

Fast forward to 1964 and retail giant Marks & Spencers, having bought over ‘Raggie Morrisons’ drapery store next door, wanted to expand, right onto the site where the tower currently stood. It looked like the Wallace Tower would be destroyed for the sake of ‘development’! Enter Dr Simpson, historian, who headed the campaign to protect the B-listed property; thankfully he prevailed, and ‘Markies’ offered to foot the bill to move it brick by brick to its new home in Seaton Park.

Sketch of Netherkirkgate with the Wellhead by Benholm's Lodging

The Wallace Tower now sits empty and forlorn on the edge of Tillydrone, having lost all historic context. But why Wallace? Benholm was soon forgotten, and the effigy of a knight was thought to be William Wallace, mainly because the old site developed the nickname ‘Waal Hoose Close’, after a public well which stood on Carnegie’s Brae nearby. 

Confusion reigned as the Doric tongue was dismissed as uncouth, and some proper Victorian thought it must mean Wallace, and thus refer to the Scots hero. The tower has not only lost its name, but its true identity as a nobleman’s townhouse – perhaps it is time to bring it back to life rather than allowing it to disintegrate and disappear forever?

The Bishop, the King and the Architect

It is difficult to believe that the highly-decorated archway on Old Aberdeen’s High Street and the New Kings classroom block are not medieval structures like their neighbour Kings College, but they were only designed in 1911 by local architect, Alexander Marshall Mackenzie, a native of Elgin.  This master of the Gothic style had already created the ‘wedding cake’ frontage to Marischal College in 1906, so this job was a doddle!

James Stuart, IV of Scotland

The coats of arms which adorn the arch tell the story of the university in miniature. We begin at the top, with the red lion rampant and the royal crown of Scotland representing King James IV.

He was a great friend of Bishop Elphinstone, the weel-kent founder of Kings College.  The second shield features the bishop’s mitre, the intitals ‘W E’ and Elphinstone’s own coat of arms.  Such was the esteem in which the bishop held his monarch, he named it Kings College in his honour, rather than St. Mary’s College, despite being dedicated to the Virgin.  James had supported the bishop’s desire to found a university college in Aberdeen when Elphinstone petitioned Pope Alexander VI.  The date of 1494 is that of the ‘bull’ or letter from His Holiness confirming this request (bulla being the Latin word for the seals which appended such communications).

Alexander Marshall MacKenzie

The date of 1912 is when New Kings was completed, suggesting Marshall Mackenzie had the archway built as a celebration of his new work. 

William Elphinstone

The motto Non Confundar  appears to be Elphinstone’s; its origins lie in a hymn attributed to early Christian missionary, St. Ambrose, Te Deum; the full phrase reads non confundar in eternum – never let me be confounded.  When we realise Bishop William was an illegitimate child, perhaps this was an indication he was determined not to allow this unfortunate beginning affect his political and religious future.

Below is the current coat of arms of the University including the quartered arms of Kings College; George Keith, founder of Marischal College; Bishop Elphinstone and Aberdeen City.  This is encompassed by Elphinstone’s Latin motto for the original “St. Mary’s College” — as we might have known it today had the bishop not dedicated it to his king — which translates as The Beginning of Wisdom is Fear of the Lord, a phrase found twice in the Bible, in Proverbs and Psalms.  The wisdom of a king, a bishop and an architect created a lasting architectural legacy which we should continue to treasure for future generations. 

Dunbar's Forgotten Tower

Very little of Bishop Elphinstone’s original Kings College quadrangle still stands in Old Aberdeen, bar the Chapel, dating from 1500.  The façade we see today was completed in 1832.  About the time of its construction, architect Alexander Fraser was dreaming up the fairytale towers of Powis Gate for his client, Leslie of Powis.  It is said Fraser was inspired by the old towers of Kings College, which were topped by lead-covered spires, and stood at either end of the south elevation, containing some of the student dormitories. 

Katherine Trail, whose father, Professor Milligan taught Biblical Criticism from 1860, recalls that the medieval student “halls” were named after planets, the south-east being ‘Jupiter’ or ‘Jove’s’ Tower.  The sometime Jupiter tower was originally called the Ivy Tower, and is now the only other survivor from the sixteenth century. 

Jove's Tower to the right - Parson Gordon's Map 1661

Hidden around the back of the current Divinity and Moral Philosophy classrooms, the tower is a four-storey, rubble-built circular structure with a conical roof. Elphinstone’s successor, William Dunbar had it built in 1525, thus it is also known as Dunbar’s Tower.  The leaden spire was destroyed in a storm in 1715, resulting in the change to the roof. 

Kings escaped much damage during the Reformation due to the bravery of Principal Alexander Anderson, who armed the students against a mob of “reformers” intent on sacking the Catholic university.   Thus much of the changes to the College were due to the need to modernise and expand.  Dr William Guild, Principal from 1640, had no qualms about knocking down the old Snow Kirk and the ruinous Bishop’s Palace in order to provide building materials for new walls.  17 years later, Cromwell’s preferred man, John Row, replaced Guild, and constructed new residences in the “Square Tower” or Cromwell Tower as it is known today.  Dunbar’s Tower remained only because of the increased need for classrooms in the 1830s.

Slezer's Etching of Old Aberdeen

Dunbar’s Tower links with a time when all students were male, aged 14-20, and were not allowed to leave campus without the express permission of their tutors.  Expected to rise at 5am, undergraduates also had to attend several church services throughout the day as well as their lectures, all of which were conducted in Latin.  Yet the story of Sacrist Downie — which follows next time — illustrates that even in the Middle Ages, students were not adverse to mischief!        

Burn the Burkin' Hoose!

“Beware the burkers!” was a cry associated with eminent surgeons and medical students across Britain between 1810 and 1831.  To learn the human anatomy, such men had to dissect human specimens, but superstition and intolerance meant these were in short supply.  The medics paid for bodies, torn from their graves by professionals or the students themselves.  One teaching surgeon in particular, Dr Andrew Moir, would happily accompany his students on raiding excursions.

‘Clever, dirty Andrew Moir’ as he was disparagingly called by his rivals, was born in Aberdeen in 1806.  It was his dream to have his own anatomy school in order to improve the dire state of medical knowledge in Aberdeen. Due to the donations from rich supporters, Dr Moir was able to turn the dream to reality when his new school opened in 1831 on an old bleach green called ‘Hospital Row’ off St Andrew’s Street, near Woolmanhill.

Today the site of Dr Moir’s school is approximately at the corner of St Andrew’s Street and Blackfriars Street, where RGU’s property stands.  The latter was originally the Demonstration School, built around 1906.

An inquisitive dog proved the surgeon’s undoing as it dug in the school’s back yard a month into its existence.  Apprentices from the nearby tannery found the mongrel pulling at a bone, and immediately declared that it was human.  The cry went up ‘Burn the Burkin’ Hoose!’ and the quickly assembled crowd burst into the middle of a dissection lesson.  The students and Dr Moir were chased into another room, which they locked behind them and then escaped by the rear exit.

The angry citizens turned their attentions to the building; with sheer force of numbers, they literally tore the school apart.  It is said that in only four hours, Dr Moir’s dreams went up in smoke, the hated ‘Burkin’ Hoose’ now a raging inferno.  He and his supporters criticised the police and the local militia for standing by and allowing the mob to run amok, but there was little sympathy outside the medical profession for his predicament.

Dr Moir was determined to continue, and almost a decade later, he was appointed the first official lecturer in anatomy at Kings College.  Sadly he died in 1844 at the age of 38, having contracted typhoid from a patient.  His gravestone, shown above, is in St Nicholas kirkyard.

The Gallows Hill

If you were standing on this anonymous hillock next to Trinity Cemetery Lodge at the foot of Errol Street about twenty years ago, you would have had a free view into Pittodrie stadium, hence the name ‘Miser’s Hillie’.  However, standing here three hundred years ago, you would have been a condemned criminal, as this was the site of the Gallows Hill from the fourteenth century until 1776.  Gallows Hill is not to be confused with Gallowgate, which led to another gibbet on the Porthill, but was reached by an old road (now Park Road) from the Justice Port at Castlegate.  Indeed, Old Aberdeen and Ruthrieston had their own gallows at Tillydrone and the Brig of Dee respectively.

Once led to the gallows, the condemned person’s view would have been of open grassland and the distant North Sea, not the cemetery, football ground and local housing as today.  Hangings always attracted a large crowd, as with the very last hanging which took place in 1776, of Alexander Morison who slew his wife with an axe.  It was a cold, stormy day, yet the people came, ghoulishly keen to observe the killer’s final moments.

The real problem with hanging was ensuring the pull of the noose broke the neck of the condemned individual otherwise they would die slowly of strangulation.  By the nineteenth century however, the ‘long drop’, between four and six feet, snapped the second or third vertebra of the spine and caused rapid brain death.  Not so for Morison, he was brought to the Gallows Hill on a cart, bound hand and foot with the rope around his neck.  City executioner Robert Welsh whipped the pony pulling the cart and Morison slowly and painfully choked to death as the cart was yanked from beneath his feet.  His body later hung in chains on the gibbet until it rotted as a warning to others.

Fifty years later the hill was partly excavated to create a gunpowder magazine for use by the King Street Militia barracks;  the soldiers made a gruesome discovery — piles of human bones, the remains of the condemned who had been buried under the hill, excluded from sacred ground because of their sins.  Stand on the Gallows Hill today just as the sun sinks below the horizon and you might imagine the sounds of the baying crowd and the executioner’s final words… ‘May God have mercy on your soul!’

The Goodly Priest Gordon

Aberdeen's Catholics did not fare very well after the Reformation; not only were all the monastic orders based in the Green and Schoolhill chased out of the city, and great vandalism was done to all Catholic churches including St. Machar's and St Nicholas, but a Trinitarian monk, Brother Francis, was murdered by the vicious mob who set fire to his church and left his beaten body to be consumed by the flames.  It was no surprise then that masses and other episcopal duties were performed out of sight of Protestants in the houses of Catholic noblemen like Thomas Menzies of Pitfodels who owned a great stone dwelling in the Castlegate.

In 1771, the Roman Church's fortunes were to change for the better - Bishop James Grant was able to persuade William Young, a staunch Catholic and local merchant to bid for the derelict property of the Smiths of Inveramsay in Justice Street, off the Castlegate.  Formerly known as Skipper Scott's Close, after a prominent sea captain who was also a Jacobite supporter and 'out' in the 'Fifteen' with the Old Pretender, James III, it had been used as a lodging house and 'gin land' by the tenants of Inveramsay Court.  Young was pleased to help, and the Bishop able to move into his new lodgings once the old property was demolished in 1774.

By the end of the 18th century, Aberdeen had already lost two bishops to old age, Bishops John Geddes and John Gordon, the latter being one of two of Bishop Geddes' nephews.  The other nephew, ordained as a priest just five years earlier, was Charles Gordon.  It was he, affectionately known by Catholic and non-Catholic alike as Priest Gordon - the first parish priest for many a long year.  He would serve as the incumbent from 1799 until his death in 1855, working until his dying day for the poor and needy of Aberdeen.

Charles Gordon, Priest of Aberdeen

Priest Gordon was what we would call 'a couthy mannie'; born near Enzie in Banffshire, he spoke the broadest Doric to all and sundry.  He loved the poor, especially children, and used his vernacular charm to great effect in securing donations from those who could afford it to pay for the building of not only a new church in what was now named Chapel Court, but later for a school and orphanage which would become the forerunner of St Peter's R C School in King Street to this very day.

In 1803, having raised quarter of the money from his congregation, and the rest from his noble friends whom he believed 'The Blessed Virgin had laid it on their herts to gie to the chapel,' Priest Gordon had his prayers answered - High Mass was celebrated in the city for the first time since the Reformation.  A victory over prejudice and bigotry for this couthy mannie!

Replica of 'Our Lady of Good Success' - in St Peter's Chapel

Interior of St Peter's, Chapel Court

Chapel Court

Professor of Divinity, William Clark wrote a fine biography of Priest Gordon, demonstrating that although he loved his fellow man and woman, he did not suffer the reformers gladly!  Prof Clark recalls as a student listening to Fr Gordon denounce the Protestant leading lights of the Reformation:

Martin Luther and John Knox were held up to universal execration in the most delightful broad Scotch and with a vehemence that might have satisfied the Grand Inquisitor. Occasionally these attacks produced bursts of merriment from his protestant hearers, and, if these became audible—which they sometimes did—the author was ejected by the sexton. 

Priest Gordon did not stop short of criticising the dead, he went for the living too!  He was often heard to be sparring verbally with Church of Scotland minister, Dr William Kidd, incumbent of the old Gilcomston Church in Summer Street (now empty, was the former Denburn CofS).  Local Catholic historian, Monsignor Sandy MacWilliam reports:

Once they were discussing the doctrine of Purgatory. Dr. Kidd declared it preposterous, a mere figment of the ecclesiastical imagination, having no place in scripture and so on—’Weel’, said the priest, ‘a’ I hiv tae say, Doctor is that we can gang farrer and fare waur!’

But the 'crowning act of his life' according to Monsignor MacWilliam, was the school.  Priest Gordon took on the challenge of education in 1831 after the death of James Barclay, one of his congregation, who had been teaching Catholic children in a small school in Longacre, on the ancient lands of the Greyfriars.  The school, which had two wings added to the original plan to serve as an orphanage, was again funded by the most generous donations of friends and parishioners alike.

Exterior, Original St Peter's School, Constitution Street

Priest Gordon lived at the school as he got older, but still worked on with a powerful spirit which inspired such confidence in the serving bishop, that they left him to it, perhaps a little feart that his vitriolic rhetoric reserved for Tyndale and Zwingli might easily by turned on them at a moment's notice!  Bishop Kyle finally persuaded Father Charles to retire in 1854, but that was the end, unable to work for his parish, he gave up the ghost - the beloved Priest was dead by 1855.

Charles Gordon was 84 years old at his death!  Yet his work was his testament, he never boasted of his achievements, they spoke volumes for this country priest.  His funeral procession was said to stretch from Justice Street all the way to the Snow Kirkyard in Old Aberdeen, and  people were still joining it as he was laid in the same grave as his brother and uncle who had passed away sixty years before.  What a triumph that this kindly soul whose faith was of the most practical kind, that he should be buried in what had been Bishop Elphinstone's parish church, St Mary ad Nives, built in 1498 for the ordinary folk of his new university town.  Like him, Elphinstone was a man away ahead of his time, offering medicine as a subject alongside the traditional vocations of law and divinity before any other university in Scotland, and full of encouragement for learning and development.  Although the reformers Priest Gordon despised had enticed the politic Dr William Guild into destroying the Snow Kirk to show his 'support' for the Covenant, the Catholics of the city eventually had the ruin reconsecrated as a cemetery for their own.

Tomb of Priest Gordon, Bishops John Grant and John Geddes et al

Priest Gordon and his family have the tabletop tomb in the centre of the Snow Kirkyard, and below them, the ancient grave of Sir Gilbert Menzies of Pitfodels, whose family had continued to support the work of their outlawed church long after the Reformation.  The last of their line, John of Pitfodels, gave his house to be used as a Catholic Seminary.  Priest Gordon aided John Menzies in converting the house for its new purpose from 1827 - we know it today as Blairs, in use from the mid-19th century until 1984.

Detail of Latin inscription on Charles Gordon's gravestone

Priest Gordon has a better monument - the modern day descendant of his school in King Street, where stands his statue in the garden.  He is dressed in his priestly robes, his hands together in an attitude of prayer.  I'd like to think he was ever thanking the Almighty and the Blessed Virgin for that couthy, kindly charm of his which inspired so many to fund his charitable works.

Priest Gordon's Statue, outside St Peter's RC School, King Street

The Bridge That Flitted

It's hard to believe that 150 years ago there was no Rosemount Viaduct, and the famous trio of buildings, Education, Salvation and Damnation, aka the Central Library, St Mark's Church and His Majesty's Theatre, had not even been thought of.  The much-maligned Union Terrace Gardens had not even been planted out!  The west bank of the Denburn Valley was a wooded slope nicknamed the Corbie Haugh after the abundance of crows, rooks and other corvid species which nested there.  Centuries further back, visiting merchants and traders left their horses and ponies to graze in the Corbie Haugh, content in the knowledge that the Blackfriars of Schoolhill had a grand view of the copse and any attempt to interfere with these beasts could be swiftly dealt with.

Fast forward to early Victorian Aberdeen - the east bank of the river is dominated by the community of Mutton Brae.  A tiny hamlet with its own internal streets, shops and access to the 'Cathedral of the Disruption', i.e. the Triple Kirks, Mutton Brae was the home of Mary Slessor, who would eventually become the beloved surrogate mother to many poor foreign orphans when she went to Calabar as a Christian missionary.  Mary recalled her life in the shadow of the great kirk and the swift-flowing Denburn; still in the open, the river was prone to spring floods, and had in its time destroyed Andrew Jameson's double-arch bridge and the old Spa Well in its fury.  The banks of the Denburn were used by the folk of Mutton Brae, Denburn Terrace and Black's Buildings as bleach greens.  The drying poles were sometimes pulled down by the force of the flooding water on what Mary described as 'fast days'.

1867 OS Map - copyright National Library of Scotland

To access the bleach greens, the folk would cross the Mutton Brae footbridge down into the valley.  This is the bridge we concern ourselves with today - before the new Rosemount Viaduct was built, and even before Rosemount Place was laid out, the crossing over the railway was via this little bridge.  Stone arches decorated with intricate wrought iron trellis panels carried the walkway down into the valley, but not over the river, there was another footbridge nearer the new Union Bridge for that purpose.

the Old Mutton Brae footbridge - with Black's Buildings and Woolmanhill behind -
image copyright Ron Winram/ Andrew Cluer (Walkin' the Mat)

The bleach green would have been a site for work and gossip - the local wifies catching up with their neighbours' doings and casting aspersions on the cleanliness of folk's washing!  The bairns meanwhile could play in the wide open space, perhaps paddle at the edge of the river on a slow day, and enjoy a cup of fresh mineral water from the Corbie Well.  This other lost inhabitant of the Denburn Valley stood near to its present site, the remains of which are hidden by a council planter at the foot of the garden steps below HMT today.  The well was decorated with other reminders from Aberdeen's past, a lampost from the old Bow Brig of 1747; a weather vane and fragment of the great bell 'Auld Lowrie' from St Nicholas Kirk, both of which were casualties of the spire crashing to the ground in the fire of 1874.  It had a lion's head over the tap and a bowl to catch the water.  Two iron cups were suspended from chains attached to the top of the well house.

Copyright unknown but acknowledged to the original bearer

In those days, Skene Street and Skene Terrace terminated at Black's Buildings, nearest Schoolhill, and the street layout looked entirely different.  There were still tenements and shops all along Blackfriars Street, which would later be swept away when the new Cowdray Hall and War Memorial were built.  The council, never happy unless aping their grander neighbours in Edinburgh or Glasgow, decided to capitalise on the railway and build a more suitable viaduct.  With the new road, completed in 1883, they could create a new public library to satisfy the city's educational and literary needs.  The central library, originally a symmetrical construction was completed with a huge injection of cash from the famous Scots philanthropist, Andrew Carnegie, in 1892, the same year that St. Mark's church was completed, being the congregation from the south part of the once single St Nicholas parish.  It was 1907 before the theatre came along and added to the now well-known trio on the viaduct.

By the start of 1890, Mutton Brae had been swept away in the name of progress, and along with it, the need for the little footbridge, as the new Rosemount Viaduct was connected to the new pleasure gardens of Union Terrace by a grand granite staircase.  The memories of the medieval valley were fading, and so the powers that be decided the footbridge was redundant, and by some strange miracle was transported - in a much shortened form - to Duthie Park and there it remains today as a bridge over the ornamental ponds.

High and Dry - no water flows under this bridge!

The Mutton Brae Bridge is still a stunning little feature, but the old ponds leave it high and dry, a monument to obsolescence.  Despite the fact of being 'flitted' and thus saved, the bridge looks bereft of purpose, and will continue to do so if the council do not spend some of their recent lottery grant on restoring the ponds in the park.  Miss Elizabeth Crombie Duthie would be horrified to know her gift of a green space to the city in memory of the male members of her family slain in conflict was so run down and depressed.  Even the tarmac on the pathways is cracked and neglected.  So, waken up people! Fix this park before you lose it too and someone takes a bucket of concrete to it!  This isn't so much the story of a bridge that flitted, but a reminder that maintenance of the remainders of our heritage is an on-going commitment, not something you do once and forget it.

Still in fine fettle, just a mite shorter than it used to be!!

Spare a thought for the Mutton Brae Bridge and its other architectural companions in Duthie Park, including the McGrigor monument (originally in Marischal College Quad), the Carden Haugh cistern house (from Carden House) and the Taylor drinking trough and fountain near the Winter Gardens (originally at the junction of Clifton Road and Great Northern Road), which have been 'flitted' from their original positions and detached from their original contexts.  We need to know where we come from, or how can we know where we're going?

Ghosts of Castle Street #1: The Lost Street

As promised, a spooky tale to rival Downie's ghost!

If you had stood at the junction of Marischal and Castle Streets in the 1530s, you would not have been able to proceed to the harbour, as Marischal Street did not exist!  George Keith, 5th Earl Marischal and founder of Marischal College was busy sizing up the plot next to Pitfodels' Lodging for his new townhouse.  The Lairds of Pitfodels were the Menzies family, a very prominent and influential clan from the 15th century up to the Jacobite Rebellion and after.  One Gilbert Menzies is buried in the Snow Kirkyard just off College Bounds in Old Aberdeen which was disparagingly known as the Papists' Burial Ground after the Reformation.  The Menzies were Roman Catholic, and their old home at Blairs near Maryculter became a Catholic seminary which lasted until the 1980s.

Pitfodels Lodging in Castle Street was one of the earliest stone dwellinghouses in the Aberdeen of the Middle Ages.  According to Edward Meldrum (Aberdeen trained architect, historian and all-round quite interesting fellow), it was William Jameson, master mason, the granddad of our favourite portrait painter, George Jameson - who rescued the Spa Well in an earlier post - who built a stone townhouse for the Menzies in 1535 to replace a wooden one burned down five years' previously.  It had a long back garden, like many of its neighbouring houses, stretching down to the quay.  Later, the Jacobite John Menzies had a back 'hoose' extension added in 1740.  The 'court' which was accessed from the archway or close on Castle Street was called Victoria Court by the 1860s and still exists today.

All trace of the Menzies' townhouse has gone today and was replaced in 1801 by the Union Bank.  Remodelled again in the twentieth century after almost two hundred years as a bank, it is now the Court Annexe, formed to relieve some of the pressure on the Sheriff Court across the road.  However, those who worked in the bank soon discovered that the former occupants may not have entirely quit the building.

Reading Graeme Milne's fascinating collection of ghostly experiences, The Haunted North, I soon discovered that in the depths of the bank - where Pitfodels Lodging had stood - and another mysterious building Milne mentions was a bank also, contained a lost street which generated some disturbing experiences!

Milne's interviewees described a 'road' in the basement of the bank, an old stone walkway of cassies which appeared to lead downwards to the quay.  Beside this 'road' were several 'cells' with big wooden doors inset with barred windows.  Milne himself had a fearful experience having found another part of the 'road' under a building off Victoria Court - I think this was the 1740 'back hoose' built by John Adam, though Milne doesn't say that.  I quote here from The Haunted North, Milne is talking about being in the basement where this road was found along with a council factor:

"I became aware of a shadow detaching itself from the dark.  Nick with his back to it remained unaware while I stared in fright over his shoulder ... the shadow in possession of  both arms and legs moved swiftly towards us and I inwardly cringed, screwing up my eyes as if in anticipation of a blow.  The blow never came and when I opened my eyes a second later, the figure had gone..."

Milne was never able to determine what the entity had been, or the identity of the 'road', so this being a sterling QI-type fact, I decided to look further into it.

Aberdeen's earliest map is that of 1661, drawn up by Parson James Gordon of Rothiemay.  Pitfodels' Lodging was marked as no. 7 on the map, and a close look shows it was a tall building as described.  The long 'backlands' stretch downwards on the slope bounded by Shore Brae to the west and Futty Wynd to the east (sans Marischal Street at this point).  Gordon has illustrated the gardens in green and drawn trees to represent the contents, however, there is nothing to say there was not an earlier path in centuries before - Castlegate did not become the favoured site of population in Aberdeen until the 14th century, most of the action taking place in the Green on the banks of the Denburn from the days of King William's palace there in the 12th century.

Parson Gordon's Map of Aberdeen 1661 - from NLS Maps website

Speculating further, one of the poor bank employees who had been rooted to the spot in terror on the old 'road' in the bank's basement, had been teased by her colleagues that this was the road to the gallows in front of the Townhouse, or from the Tolbooth to prison ships bound for Australia.  Both of these are spurious because the sites of execution before the Castlegate where on the Heading and Gallow Hills.  Gallowshill, an anonymous grassy mound next to the Trinity Cemetery lodge, was in use until 1776, so there was no need for a road down to the harbour at all.  Condemned criminals were transported from the Tolbooth (in Castlegate in one form or another from 1394) either to the gallows via the Gallowgate of course, or through the Justice Port to the heading hill, now where the old Hanover Street School stands.

Earlier places of punishment seem to be situated around the early tolbooth, down at Regent Quay from 1191; a ducking stool is recorded for punishing "gossips" and "scolds" (nagging wifies!), but why require a road up to the town? Possibly it was just a transport road for taking goods up from ships, however, they could have easily come up Shore Brae and the Shiprow.  The back yard of either the Earl Marischal's house or Pitfodels' Lodging is where the 'maiden' or guillotine was kept when not in use, and then wheeled up to Heading Hill by those assigned to do so.  Maybe this is the purpose of the road?  If so, it would make some sense of malevolent spirits being there!

Alexander Milne - Map of Aberdeen c. 1789

Looking at the later map when John Menzies' new extension is built we can see a long sliver of space which may be this cobbled lane.  I would like to think so!  The house was meant to be three stories tall, so either the building of Marischal Street (1767) resulted in alot of these backlands being built over, which resulted in the cobbled street ending up in the basement of the bank in 1801, or Victoria Court was built over and raised up by the 1860s.  There is no way of telling unless someone goes and digs up the new holding cells in the court annexe basement!  I wonder if they did, could a geophysical survey instrument pick up the 'road' and its route?

My conclusion, a cobbled street sounds like something from the later 18th century, especially if they are granite 'setts' or cassies, as commercial granite workings don't date much before that.  So when Pitfodels Lodging was originally built in 1535, there may have been a courtyard of sandstone.  The 1740 extension must have built on top of that, and it is a sandstone causeway on which the 'maiden' was wheeled that appears in the 19th century building's basement. OR the narrow closey apparently shown on Alexander Milne's 1789 map, is a granite causeway used for transporting regular goods up from the harbour.  By the time Victoria Court is built, the 'road' disappears.

1867 OS Map - from NLS Maps collection -
note Victoria Court entirely enclosed

I would like to think the disturbances and sightings relate to the victims of the Maiden, and are even earlier than the mysterious 'road' or causeway under the Court Annexe.  If so, perhaps their spirit activities have now diminished in the face of the anxieties and sometimes arrogance of the criminals who sit in the locus of those old cells today.  Whatever the case, history is always under your feet, so watch yourself!

Coming soon...

QI facts to appear here soon

• the story of Rowies
• Coney or Cunningar Hill
• Ghosts of Castle Street

Meanwhile - check out Hidden Aberdeen Tours

Well, well, well!

Three holes in the ground!  Yes, the standard retort to repeating the word 'well'.  But in this case, the QI elves of Aberdeen refer to the shifting site of the once beautiful Spa Well, praised by none less than the king's physician, Dr Gilbert Skene in his 1580 pamphlet "Ane Brief Descriptioun of the Qualiteis and Effectis of the Well of the Woman Hill" (a later facsimile of this work dated 1884 claims that it is not the work of Dr Skene, but someone with only second-hand knowledge of the well), and recognised for its curative qualities as a source of iron mineral salts or 'chalybeate' water.

Spa Street today - the well would have been on the left, just where the cyclist is crossing

The Well of Spa was situated where the entrance to the Upper Denburn car park is now.  The car park forms the lower part of the Denburn Health Centre which was built in the early 1970s, cutting off Jack's Brae and Hardweird from the rest of the Gilcomston area.  Good water sources were difficult to come by in medieval times - too many folk were washing their clothes in the great Loch of Aberdeen - which covered a large area from Loch St near Aberdeen College to Maberley St where the remains of Richards' Mill stands today - and causing it to become 'filthy and defilet' as a 17th century report claimed.  The Spa Well represented the main public water source for the Denburn and Gilcomston area.

Spring wells were made accessible to the public by the construction of well-houses, which usually contained a spout or tap and cups to ease drinking from.  Water, nicknamed Adam's Wine by some, was so vital in an age where a settled population had forgotten all their Neolithic and Mesolithic ancestors knew about cleanliness and good ground.  What had filtered through was a continuing superstitious veneration of water, long after the Reformation had supposedly done away with 'Popish' fancies, and many 'Holy Wells' still existed.  The Holy Wells of Catholic Scotland may also have derived from the magically-endowed waters of wells and springs that Pagan Celts, Picts and Neolithic folk would have worshipped - it's what you call spiritual archaeology!  Even the name of the River Dee recalls both the Latin word for a goddess - Dea, indicating the Romans worshipped water and river spirits also.

So why is there a link between water worship and the Spa Well?

The spirits or angels who inhabited or blessed the wells and water courses were relied upon for healing.  The Pool of Bethesda, or Five Porched Pool mentioned in John's Gospel carried a legend that an angel touched the water at a certain time and the first to enter the pool would  be cured of whatever ailment from which they suffered.  It is no surprise then that we read of the Spa Well's earliest description (1615) as having "a long wide stone which conveyed the waters from the spring, with the portraiture of six Apostles hewn upon either side thereof."

This 12th century carving of the Apostles may provide some idea as to the design of the Spa Well's original housing

Also, the mineral qualities of the spring water had been recognised as a curative measure for a number of conditions in medieval times which physicians found hard to treat otherwise.  Dudley North found this to be the case with the chalybeate spring at Tunbridge Wells, and his doctor claimed that Baron North's discovery meant a cure for the following:

• colic
• the melancholy
• the vapours
• flat worms in the belly
• clammy humours
• 'over-moist brain'

Queen Victoria would later discover the pleasure of Tunbridge Wells, and bestow upon it regal approval, giving the citizens the right to call it Royal Tunbridge Wells.

Other physicians claimed it cured hysteria.

George Jameson - self portrait 1642 (Scot. Nat. Gall)

Our Spa well cured a certain George Jameson of bladder stones, much to his relief and delight, one would imagine!  George was the son of Aberdeen master mason, Andrew Jameson; he himself was known as the Scottish Van Dyck, being one of this country's earliest portrait painters.  His only surviving child, Mary, would turn out to be as skilled with a needle and thread as her dad was with a paintbrush, or her grandfather with a hammer and chisel - her tapestry work can be seen on display in St. Nicholas Kirk to this day.



George's delight at being cured resulted in him requesting of the council the opportunity to renew the well and create a new garden for his own and others' enjoyment on the bank of the Denburn in 1635.  He also either renewed or created the Playe Green which stood where Woolmanhill hospital does today, a space for travelling players to perform - medieval mystery plays were still very popular as were productions of contemporary works, and this site outside the city boundary (yet within the Celtic domain of Gillecoaim, the chief who gave his name to Gilcomston) was ideal for companies arriving by boat or from the south over the Bow Brig.  There are again suggestions that Jameson had nothing to do with the well house as it stood at the top of the Garden Nook he built, but it is more likely that he did, having a master mason for a father, and he was back from Holland and established in his Schoolhill house for 25 years by this time.

The sandstone well house which still exists today bears Jameson's gleeful inscription:

as Heaven gives me, so I give thee

The Four Neuked Garden or Garden-Nook as it appears on later maps was certainly in existence when James Gordon published his map of Aberdeen in 1661 - it remained until 1867, shown clearly on the OS map as sited behind the well house and its sunken circular seating.  There is no mention of the garden by 1912 in the area shown on Bartholomew's map, and its old neighbour, the Gilcomston Brewery had gone by then also.

OS Map Copyright 

The well itself seemed to have survived as the water supply until 1860.  Just a few decades after Jameson's attentions, Baillie Alexander Skene also requested funds to renew the well house in 1670, writing that a new well house was required as "these severall yeires bygone, since the same wes stopit by the violent torrent of wateris which overturned it." It seems the Denburn was prone to flooding, as was perhaps the Gilcomston burn, not far hence, and had damaged the well house.  This was prior to the installation of the plumbing for a universal water supply in the early 1700s for Aberdeen, so Skene was granted his wish - perhaps the canny cooncillors recognising the wisdom of his words concerning the Spa Well's tourist potential! "Those seeklie [sickly] strangeris knowning of such ane free offer of health might make more frequent resort to this burghe"

The well house then receives a new inscription to remind all of the council's generosity: Hoc fonte derivita salus in patriam populunque fliat / May health derived from this spring flow to country and people (Spada Rediviva 1670)

Both the early inscriptions are in the sandstone, which have lead some historians to date the well house from that period, indicating that Jameson may have had the original stone panels with the apostles still on them renewed, some even say Skene made mention of these panels.  Sandstone was the popular building material in the city right through medieval times until the commercial working of granite came into being.  Old Red Sandstone, which lies in the land to the north and south of Aberdeen, was softer and easier to work - some of Andrew Jameson's handiwork can be seen in Provost Ross's house in the Shiprow - so granite was hardly used unless in the form of freestone, i.e., unworked lumps as would be found in a dry stane wall.

Spa Well House in its Regency Setting (Wyness)

Another clue appears in the last inscription which is carved into a block of granite, its grey, hard surface very different to the still crumbly sandstone - reading The work was renewed in 1851.  Enter the Police Commissioners - instituted 1798, the burgh police constabulary to come in 1818 - who find the well is in a bad state of repair and the spring is being diverted by rubble and stones in the burn itself.  The work is done to culvert the burn to protect it from further pollution and the well house most likely re-plumbed.

The well house remains on site until 1893 when it is removed to the hospital side of the road, and re-plumbed again, it being no longer considered a salubrious place to visit.  Fenton Wyness' book 'Aberdeen - A Century of Change' shows an image of the well house in its new spot.

Spa Well in its Edwardian setting - the back wall still exists today
beside the water tank in Woolmanhill Hospital grounds (Wyness)

In 1882 a chemical survey of the well had been carried out by a Thomas Jameson who was able to show its source was the Gilcomston Burn, as the mineral content was identical to a well at Gilcomston Steps, then across from the 'Rotten Holes' the local name for the apprentices' accommodation next to the Broadford Mill.  The water flow had been interrupted by the railway workings in the Denburn Valley, which disrupted both the early streams which had fed into the Loch and others like the Mautmill Burn, the Putachie Burn, all of which eventually emptied into the harbour.

Most of Aberdeen's wells disappeared with new water sources and drainage, few even daring to drink what was now thought to be polluted.

Our friend the Spa Well was no exception - shifted again in 1977 when the new health centre swept away old Upper Denburn forever, and left high and dry, it sits today in a 'pocket park' with a little circular wall reminiscent of the 17th century one, as a curious landmark of the past.

The sun symbol takes us right back to the spring's Pagan ancestry, where the Sun god was the giver of all life, and hence the giver of water too - and the rose, thistle and fleur-de-lis a reminder of Aberdeen's Jacobite sympathies - the 'little white rose of Scotland' that Hugh MacDiarmid said "smells sharp and sweet and breaks the heart" - the prickly thistle declaring "wha daur meddle wi me?" and the lily-flower, symbol of France, the auld ally, but even earlier still, the lily was the flower of the Virgin Mary, the symbol that appeared on the arms of Old Aberdeen and Kings College, and thus a Catholic icon.

The well cured, but no cure found for itself... so if you wander past it one day, give its roof a wee *clappie and say 'Well, well, well..."

*clap (v.) Scots - to pat affectionately; clappie - diminutive of.

images copyright to Fiona-Jane Brown; unless stated;